Retractable Leashes – when to (and not to) use one

The first iteration of the retractable lead was called a “leading device” and was patented in America all the way back in 1908. This idea didn’t really gain popularity until a German engineer made significant updates to its functionality and overall design in the 1970s.

I recall the first time I saw one. It was the now highly recognizable Flexi brand that often stands in as a term for all retractable leads – such has been its popularity in the decades since. It’s not hard to see why, when I first encountered them, I thought this was a brilliant idea, too!

Dogs desperately want and need to sniff. This often interferes with the human desire to walk at a consistent pace without stopping to wait on the dog to sniff, snuffle, and snort every so many steps. When your wants in a walk are: stays at a steady pace, no stopping and no pulling, you want to give the dog the ability to range outwards; a leash that extends to allow your dog to go some distance from you while maintaining control…well, it seems perfect, doesn’t it?

Unfortunately, retractable leashes aren’t perfect. They’re a big problem for guardians, dogs, children, other pets, wildlife, and bystanders. They’re such a problem that many guardians, members of the non-dog public, and professionals alike harbor a deep hatred for them and would even like to see them banned.

We’re going to talk about the ethics of retractable leashes – why they’re a problem, when to use them, and when not to use them.

Why Retractable Leashes are a Problem

Retractable leashes are not evil objects. They’re simply tools, and like many tools, they become dangerous when used in situations they were never designed for.

The issue isn’t that dogs love sniffing. (And, they absolutely do. Sniffing lowers heart rate and stress hormones, and is cognitively enriching. They really do need to engage in sniffing!) The issue is physics.

A retractable leash combines:

Thin cord or tape under tension
A plastic handle with a mechanical brake
Variable distance (often 10–26 feet)
Constant line pressure

That combination creates several predictable risks.

Documented Human Injuries

The injuries associated with retractable leashes are not hypothetical; they’re documented over the decades of their popularity.

A 2009 study published in the Journal of Emergency Medicine analyzed injuries related to retractable leashes in the U.S. and found thousands of emergency department visits over five years.

The most common injuries included:

Rope burns and lacerations
Finger amputations
Facial injuries
Falls resulting in fractures

In 2020, a study published in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery – Global Open reviewed leash-related injuries from 2001–2018 and found more than 422,000 emergency department visits in the United States.

Injuries were often caused by:

The leash wrapping around hands or legs
Sudden jerks from dogs reaching the end of the line
Hand entrapment in the retractable mechanism

The thin cord under tension can act like a cutting wire. Severe finger injuries — including partial amputations — are well documented. (Though the “tape” version, which has a wider, flatter line seems somewhat safer, it comes with all the same injury risks as the thin cord.)

Even when the injury is “just” a fall, it can mean broken wrists, concussions, or facial fractures. This is particularly in older adults.

Example:

A 2009 study published in the Journal of Emergency Medicine analyzed injuries related to retractable leashes and found thousands of emergency department visits over a five-year period.¹

A later review of emergency department data from 2001–2018 identified over 422,000 leash-related injuries in the United States.²

Injuries to Dogs

Dogs themselves are also at risk from retractable leash use. As a dog guardian and professional caretaker of beloved dogs belonging to others, it is a terrifying thought that a tool meant to give a dog an enjoyable, enriching time could end up being the cause of terror, injury, or even worse. Unfortunately, that is too frequently the reality.

Common scenarios include:

Sprinting to the end of the line and experiencing abrupt neck or back force
Becoming entangled around legs, poles, other dogs, or wildlife
Running into the street before the guardian can engage the brake
Being unable to retreat quickly from a trigger (reactive encounter)

Sudden deceleration at full extension can create significant cervical strain — especially if attached to a collar rather than a harness. Even on a harness, the force can twist or torque the body. This extreme force can also jerk the handle from the guardian’s grasp, and the dog’s panic at being “chased” by the bouncing, noisy handle can cause them to attempt to flee and/or hide, resulting in lost dogs. The internet is full of lost-and-found dog postings with retractable leashes attached, and last year, drone-based services like this one gained greater recognition for finding particularly challenging lost dogs…with retractables still attached.

There are also documented cases of:

Cord slicing into legs
Tail injuries
Panic reactions when tension remains constant

Because retractables are always under tension unless locked, they also tend to teach dogs to pull continuously.³ From a learning theory perspective, that constant pressure becomes part of the walking equation. If the leash pays out when they lean into it, pulling is reinforced.^⁴ This is another reason why behaviorists and trainers do not recommend their use; they’re teaching your dog the opposite of safer, better leash skills.

Risk to Children, Bystanders, and Other Animals

As you probably can surmise by this point, it’s the retractable leash’s long, thin cord that poses a severe risk to anyone within range, on top of the issue of uncontrollable range itself.

If a person:

Walks into it
Bicycles through it
Doesn’t see it stretched across a path

Injury can, and often does, occur. Additionally, the thinness of the cord makes it difficult to see – neither people nor animals can even attempt to avoid what they don’t see until it is too late.

It can:

Burn skin
Trip pedestrians
Strike a child at neck height
Tangle another dog

Other pets are also at risk. A dog on 20 feet of thin line can reach another dog long before the guardian can physically intervene. Even when dogs aren’t acting aggressively, the cord can cause harm to dog legs, tails, and anything else it wraps around – potentially even causing a fight. Wildlife, too, suddenly becomes within range and is in danger. Then, there are cats. Regardless of your opinion of cats being outdoors, there is no excuse for a dog to attack a loose cat – retractable leashes often make it possible. (Not to mention the danger to the increasing number of cats out on leash with their guardians. This is a responsible way of giving applicable cats outdoor enrichment, and they deserve to be safe while out “on a walk” as well.)

In high-arousal situations, reaction time matters — and retractables add delay.

Loss of True Control

Many guardians believe the brake equals control. That’s not an unreasonable assumption; on the surface, and with our experience with other brakes, it seems to make sense. Unfortunately, that’s not the reality.

Mechanical brakes fail. Hands slip. Dogs lunge faster than thumbs react. If a 60-pound dog hits the end of a 16-foot line at full speed, the physics are not in the human’s favor.

The longer the leash, the greater the acceleration. The greater the acceleration, the greater the force at impact.

This is not a moral issue. It’s math, and the numbers are not in favor of maintaining true control.

When Retractable Leashes Can Be Used Responsibly

Despite the risks, there are contexts where retractable leashes can be used thoughtfully.

The key variables are:

Environment
Dog training level
Dog size and strength
Handler ability
Equipment choice (what’s your dog wearing?)

* I know, the picture accompanying this section does not display a dog wearing a harness! While I strongly advise and advocate for harnesses, that is not every guardian’s choice at this time. The dog pictured, Sailor, is a sitting client. Sailor is extraordinarily calm, well-trained, and typically goes off-leash. Thus, wearing a collar with ID is a good option for her. She is as safe as possible a choice to walk this way, and I use her leash out of an abundance of caution – because dogs are dogs, often just the reminder, “You’re attached to a human friend,” is sufficient as it is with her.

Image showing an "English Cream" colored Golden Retriever coming to a pause along a long stretch of empty roadway and green, summer pastures. The landscape is empty except for the dog, who is attached to a retractable leash that is extended. The image's purpose is to show an appropriate setting and dog for using a retractable dog leash safely and ethically. — Pet sitting friend, Sailor the Golden Retriever, routinely goes on long walks using a retractable leash. Sailor’s factors: correct environment (country, very low traffic), high training level, appropriate *behavior* *qualities*, *and* *correct handler ability.*

In Rural or Low-Traffic Areas

Wide open, low-traffic country roads or large empty fields can reduce risk significantly — if:

There are no nearby dogs
There is no road access
Wildlife risk is low
The dog has a reliable recall

In these contexts, the retractable leash can function like a convenience long line.

However, many trainers would argue that an actual long line (15–30 feet of biothane or nylon) provides better feedback, visibility, and control.

Controlled Recall Training

In enclosed spaces (empty baseball fields, fenced areas, large quiet parks at off hours), a retractable can sometimes be used as a recall backup.

That said, most positive reinforcement trainers prefer a traditional long line for skill-building because:

It does not stay under tension
It allows for clean reinforcement timing
It avoids a sudden mechanical snap-back

Professionals such as Victoria Stilwell and Karen Pryor advocate for long lines during recall training rather than retractables for this reason.

Potty Access for Elderly or Disabled Guardians

For individuals with mobility limitations, a retractable leash may allow a dog to:

Range to a preferred potty spot
Sniff and eliminate at a distance
Maintain some level of containment

In these cases:

The dog should be calm and non-reactive
A front-clip or well-fitted harness should be used
The environment should be predictable and low traffic

This is a pragmatic use case where safety can be managed. It’s important for beloved, well-cared-for pets to remain in safe homes. Used properly, this tool can mean that an elderly or disabled guardian can keep their dog. Dogs stay in good homes, and those in particular need of their companionship, motivation to be active, and documented health benefits for dog guardians continue to receive these benefits.

A beige Chihuahua on a leash walking on grass in a calm outdoor setting. — *This Chihuahua is on a harness with a retractable leash and in an appropriate environment. Ethical, responsible use of retractables can mean a dog staying with an elderly or disabled guardian.*

When NOT to Use a Retractable Leash

Below are situations in which a retractable should absolutely NOT be used due to the inherently high risk it presents.

In Busy Neighborhoods or Urban Areas

Sidewalks, apartment complexes, trails, festivals, school zones — these environments contain:

Children
Other dogs
Cyclists
Cars

The unpredictability is too high. Six feet is a socially responsible default in public. Twenty feet is not.

A bustling Stockholm street intersection with pedestrians and vehicles on a sunny day. — *Busy neighborhoods and urban areas like this are some of the places retractable leashes should not be used.*

With Reactive Dogs

Dogs who:

Bark or lunge at other dogs
Are fearful of strangers
Have barrier frustration

These dogs need close, predictable handling. Retractables delay response and increase arc distance during lunges. Again, making this too high a risk for responsible use.

For reactive dogs, shorter fixed-length leashes (4–6 feet) paired with reinforcement-based behavior modification are significantly safer. (And a far better recipe for success in treating reactivity instead of potentially worsening it!)

With High Prey Drive Dogs

If your dog will:

Bolt after squirrels
Chase deer
Fixate on cats

Remember that a retractable leash increases momentum before you can respond.

That acceleration can mean:

Road entry
Shoulder injury
Handler fall
Harm to other animals

Prey drive plus mechanical delay is not a safe combination for anyone involved, and additionally, these leashes allow dogs to “practice” a dangerous behavior.

Adorable Shiba Inu dog on a leash enjoying a walk in a forested area. — *Dogs like Shiba Inu, terriers, and herding breeds often need extra enrichment and exercise, but are inappropriate for retractable leashes due to high prey/movement drives.*

With Large, Powerful, or Untrained Dogs

If a guardian cannot comfortably:

Hold the leash in one hand
Stop forward momentum immediately
Prevent sudden lunges

A retractable is inappropriate.

Power + distance = amplified force. Again, this is just science! Not a judgement on your dog’s breed, size, or where they’re at in learning and why. The worst thing you can do for powerful breed types who already have an unfair bias against them is to prove that correct by not having control over your dog responsibly. This doesn’t mean your dog is dangerous; they may be just dying to go see everyone, but their retractable leash is dangerous.

Attached to a Collar

Even in appropriate environments, retractables should not be attached to a flat collar. This is very unsafe.

Sudden tension can cause:

Tracheal damage
Cervical strain
Thyroid injury

A well-fitted Y-front harness is significantly safer to use with any leash, but especially a retractable one.

While we are more aware of tracheal damage in small and toy breeds, we’re not aware enough of how easy it occurs in all other dog sizes as well. Tracheal damage, cervical strain, and thyroid injury are all very serious, potentially deadly consequences. Go with the harness!

*This blog is against the use of prong and choke collars, no matter the leash attached, but I see guardians publicly using them with retractable leads. I cannot stress enough how incredibly dangerous and inhumane this practice is – please do NOT do this.

A woman and her Australian Shepherd enjoying a sunny day at the beach in Phuket, Thailand. — *Though this Aussie mix’s leash is standard, not retractable, she’s sporting an appropriate harness.*

The Ethical Question

The real ethical question is not, “Should these be banned?” It’s, “Am I using this tool ethically?”

Used in a responsible, ethical fashion, retractable leashes do have a place and purpose.

Retractables appeal to us because they feel tidy and effortless. But safety and skill often look slightly less convenient.

Slack in the leash
Clear communication
Safer handling mechanics

And that’s okay. We call it “pet parenting” and “guardianship” because those are true reflections of our relationship with our dogs. Just like parenting or guardianship of a human child, things are rarely tidy and effortless!

The appeal is understandable. My dog isn’t perfect, either! That’s right, the blog mascot, Tater, is only appropriate for retractable leash use in the backyard or out in the country. The imagery of allowing him to happily sniff his way down the street, going to and fro as his herding genes tell him to, no ultra-perceptible restriction – it’s very appealing! However, the realistic and responsible assessment is poor; that appealing idea wouldn’t be the reality.

The reality is that putting my young, high-drive herding dog on a retractable leash without more solid communication, recall, and walking skills would be a poor experience for both of us, dangerous for anyone around, and solidly unethical.

I promise, it’s really okay if your dog isn’t there yet, either! In my experience, most are not, and many never will be applicable responsibly. That’s just fine; there are plenty of other ways to get those sniffs in. Tater and I sure do!

Bottom Line

Retractable leashes are not universally evil. They’re just a tool that needs to be used correctly and in the correct environments.

They are:

High-risk in public, busy, or unpredictable spaces
Inappropriate for reactive or untrained dogs
Physically dangerous when misused
Occasionally, reasonable in controlled, low-risk environments

The most humane choice is not about brand loyalty, personal preference, or ease of guardianship responsibilities. It’s about situational awareness.

And if your goal is enrichment?

There are safer ways to give dogs the world — one sniff at a time.

As I said above, my own dog is just as “imperfect” as every other dog out there. Tater has some complex individual and breed situations that make him still inapplicable to retractable leads outside of very specific, contained circumstances. Believe me, this is hard for me!

For quite literally 20 years, I had dogs who had stunning recall, and stayed right with me off-leash. Vitaly and Marigny, Pomeranians, often only wore leashes because I appreciate dog-friendly spaces and follow leash laws. It’s very strange and difficult to not have Tater be the same way, no matter how much I recognize that he’s not only a differrent individual dog, he’s a different breed type.

All we can do is keep working on it and being thrilled about the progress – while realizing that he might never be a dog who is applicable to either off-leash or rectractable leashes.

I say all this because it’s a judgemental world anyway, but the dog world might be one of the most judgey ones to be a part of. I want you to know that your dog not having perfect recall or leash skills yet, or not being at the point of reponsible retractable use, perhaps never for various reasons, is not always the guardian fail the dog community acts like it is. It’s a mark of responsible, ethical guardianship to know your dog’s individual limits – as well as your own – not a bad thing!

Of course, you still want (and need) to teach your dog and exercise their body and mind with enriching activities.

You absolutely can do that without using a retractable leash!

Here are some things I highly recommend:

Long lines

Long lines are heavily used and advised by renowned professionals for a good reason: they give the ability to work on recall (and other skills and fun things like scent work), allow for greater range than standard leashes, and are great for enriching sniffs and games.

Short “traffic leashes” and 4 to 6 foot long leashes are excellent for high pedestrian, bicycle, and vehicle traffic areas, as well as structured walks and apartment or urban life. They can leave a lot to be desired when trying to teach recall at increasing distances, setting up enrichment games where your dog sniffs out treats and objects, or when wanting to let your dog freely follow a great (to them, anyway) scent in an open area.

These are all places the long line shines!

Long lines typically start at about 10 feet and can be found all the way up to 50 feet or more in length, as well as in a wide variety of materials, strengths, and weights. This variety means that there is at least one out there that’s perfect for your dog’s size and the activity you need more space for.

My favorite kind: biothane.

Biothane is my favorite leash material (and my favorite grooming loop material as well) for any length and style. Why? It’s going to sound like I made this up, I thought it was too good to be true as well, but seriously – wipe clean, no smell, waterproof, smell-proof, stain-proof.

For real! I’ve had this material come into contact with some pretty gross, incredibly stinky things (including dog anal gland expressing, that’s pretty extreme), with no odor once the objectionable material was cleaned off. Cleaning it off is easy, too. Obviously, you can use some soap and water, it rinses right off, but if it gets gross at the park or out in the yard, or your puppy does a potty on it, it’s as easy as using a dog, baby, hand, or cleaning wipe – that’s it!

And, it’s extremely durable. My grooming loop has been in use for years, exposed to pressure, water, blow drying, washing, being wiped down, and being chewed on. Both Tater and another resident, our old lady dog, Vesta (a nearly 100lb GSD and APBT cross), have biothane leashes. Vesta has had hers nearly all ten years of her life, Tater all but two days of the nearly two years (as of this post) that we’ve lived together. Both have gone through maximum chewing, tugging, and grossness phases of puppyhood, and have seen a lot of use in many conditions since. Both of their leashes also function as a tether point or way to attach the leash to the guardian as well, and have been used to tether them to park benches and such while having lunch.

They both look exactly the same as they did the day they were purchased! Colors are still as vibrant, no fraying, tearing, or crackling. No stains, no smells, still fully waterproof. They even feel the same – and as a Texture Person, the almost leathery soft feeling of this material is a great one that I’m pleased lasts.

You can get biothane long lines, standard leashes, and convertible/multi-function leashes, among many other styles and collars as well. I’ve linked some, but there are loads of companies making them at different price rates and awesome customizations.

Structured Enrichment

I’m a real person, and one with a chronic illness – spending time with my dog (and all pets, in general) is definitely my favorite thing, but I understand the appeal of allowing “freestyle” sniffing to be enrichment. That’s often not enough, depending on your dog’s needs and age, and yes, dogs do actually get bored with unstructured sniffing about. (It’s a little more complex than that, but let’s just leave it at that for this post!)

Structuring enrichment is a great time for you both, and will add the best sort of mental exercise for your dog!

All dogs enjoy sniffing to some degree – some are a little less into it, some are driven to distraction by it – and with how fulfilling and healthy it is for dogs to sniff, the nose is the right place to start. Instead of following your dog around on a long line while they smell the entire park again, or spending another rainy day inside bored, start teaching scent games.

If you want to get into scent or nose-work either as an excellent source of enrichment or as a sport or even career for your dog, scent-work starter kits are increasingly popular and available in a variety of designs, smell types, and even skill levels. I can’t say that I’ve tried any yet, but Tater and I are hoping to test one out soon!

Starting out DIY style is easy, though!

Teach your dog “find it” by very simply dropping a small treat on the floor. They’ll definitely get the idea very fast, and you can move to hiding the treats under/within a towel, getting or making your own snuffle mat, or trying games like the Muffin Tin Game. In the Muffin Tin Game, you take a muffin baking “tin” (pretty sure they’re not tin anymore, but pets are my thing, not baking) and place a little treat or two in each or just a few of the openings. Then, place an object your dog can remove on top – the most popular choice is to use dog-safe tennis balls. Your dog will be able to smell where the treats are, and will work at getting the tennis balls off to get the treats. It’s an easy DIY dog puzzle!

If DIY-ing this isn’t your thing, there are so many dog puzzles out there you can buy. Personally, we love Nina Ottosson dog and cat (yes, cats enjoy this as well) puzzles for their range of learning level difficulties, genuinely pet-friendly designs, and excellent price range.

Another simple favorite of mine for days that are too hot, cold, rainy, or otherwise of the mostly stuck inside variety: hide and go seek – with treats! Again, start simply, but your dog will understand the game and the cues you use very quickly! It’s exactly as it sounds, you place treats in places your dog can sniff out and let them get to work on seeking. Once your dog understands the game, you’ll need to let them stay out of the area while you do the hiding. (Watch your dog as they progress – you’ll start noticing that they’re not just wildly sniffing for the smell of a treat, they’re also smelling your path as you hid them!) Dogs love this game, and it’s friendly to those who prefer toys or need fewer treats – you hide a favorite toy instead. You can even hide yourself and let them find you, and as they master the game, you just keep increasing the challenge to find the treat or favored toy.

This game can be played indoors and outdoors.

Engage Breed Needs

Your dog’s genetics are fascinating, and they do matter. Engaging what your dog’s ancestors were developed to do as a job is extremely fulfilling enrichment – and extremely fun to witness.

You absolutely don’t need livestock for herding dogs, interlopers for guardians, or anything immoral for terriers or hounds. There are ways to engage breed instincts both humanely and in any type of pet home.

Herding balls and other herding toys often engage the breed-based inclinations of a variety of breeds beyond herding dogs. Herding is a modification of the predatory sequence, which all dogs possess to some modified degree, and most dog jobs of the past relied on some part of this natural “dog programming.”

Flirt poles are excellent for nearly all breeds for this reason, you can just take the enrichment up a notch by using the toy in ways most similar to what your dog’s breed was meant to do.

For scent hounds, the answer is pretty obvious – scent games!

For guardians, as well as many other breeds who thrive on “check it out” style activities, teaching them to walk the backyard or house with you, asking them to “check It out” when you open an appropriate drawer or door, or reach an obvious point in the yard (where your fence meets in a corner, trees, fallen branches, or objects you place out there ahead of time like a box or bucket), is very fulfilling.

For everything your dog might have the natural drive or calling to do, there is a creative, safe, and possible outlet!

Pet parenting can be hard, responsible and ethical guardianship is always worth it. These two things coexist as realities, but the pressure of the dog community itself, as well as everyone else outside of it having their own opinions, can add unrealistic expectations neither you nor your dog can live up to.

Pressure to use certain tools. Pressure to use them in certain ways. Pressure for your dog to be further on a learning path than they are. Pressure to be an impossibly perfect guardian with an impossibly perfect dog.

You and your dog are individuals – learning from others (the right “others,” anyway) is a good thing, but never lose track of the reality that neither of you are anyone other than just who you are. So long as you are a responsible, ethical, humane guardian with compassion and love for your pet, you’re doing alright! Yes, even if your dog is never applicable to what others think they should be, or you wanted them to be – like retractable leash use. Remember, compassion and guardianship means acceptance, too.

This doesn’t mean your dog has to be cut off from excellent enrichment and exercise. In fact, if you are actively engaged in giving your dog such activities vs clipping on a retractable, regardless of ethics, to let it act as a sole source of enrichment? Your dog is living a far more fulfilled and humane life than one relying solely on a retractable leash!

If you’d like more information/ideas, I encourage you to check out Positively, Collies with Yen, and look for dog enrichment groups on social media, as well as Pinterest ideas.

References

This article references peer-reviewed research and published injury data.

O’Brien, D. C., et al. (2009). Dog leash-related injuries treated in United States emergency departments. Journal of Emergency Medicine, 37(1), 34–39.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jemermed.2007.09.053
Rhea, S., et al. (2020). Leash-related injuries in the United States: 2001–2018. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery – Global Open, 8(9).
https://doi.org/10.1097/GOX.0000000000003070
The effects of leash tension on canine behavior and stress signals. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 9(5), 201–207.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jveb.2014.05.002
Rooney, N. J., & Cowan, S. (2011). Training methods and their association with behavior and welfare in dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 132(3–4), 169–177. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.applanim.2011.04.005

Retractable Leashes – when to (and not to) use one